Wednesday, 30 May 2007

Quebrada de Humahuaca (Argentina)

We crossed the border from Bolivia to Argentina in the late afternoon and as the sun set we hopped on a bus bound to Tilcara, about 4 hours south of the border. A waning cresent hung in the periwinkle sky, which quickly turned ink black. We watched Orion rise. When we woke up in Tilcara the next morning, we found we were deep in the Valley of Humahuaca (Quebrada de Humahuaca), surrounded by rough, multi-colored mountains.

That afternoon we took a bus to Salta, traveling through the rest of the spectacular canyon.


And you wonder why people eat so much steak in this country.


Monday, 28 May 2007

Tupiza Horseback Riding Tour (Southern Bolivia)

As we made our way south towards the Argentinian border, we stopped in a town called Tupiza, which sits in a valley southeast of Uyuni. There we went on a two day horsebackriding tour with two Australians, Luke and Keeley, and a guide.


The trail we took south from Tupiza followed a dry valley to the Puerta del Diablo and then joined the Rio San Juan which runs along the bottom of a wide river valley. We crossed and recrossed the river many times.

Melanie rode a gentle white and black spotted horse named La Pintada.

The trail eventually climbed up from the river to follow the left side of the valley.

As the afternoon wore on, the sun warmed the mountains to warm hues of red and gold.

The Rio San Juan drifted on below us.


Stephen rode a black horse named Laguno, who we renamed Black Stallion, since he kept bucking everyone. Eventually the guide had to change horses with Stephen.

Along the river the cool smell of willows and feather reed grass gave relief from the dusty afternoon heat.

Our first view of the Rio San Juan.

The Rio San Juan passed by the Toroyoj rock formation, where we stopped for lunch the first day and revisited on our way back north on the second day.

Gratuitous cat shot

Friday, 25 May 2007

Salars, Lagunas and Otherworldly Landscapes (Southwestern Bolivia)

We took a three day trip through southwestern Bolivia to visit, among other things, the worlds largest salt flat. After a day of blinding white vistas on the Salar de Uyuni, we moved into an otherworldly high altitute desert landscape full of multi-hued mountain ranges, flamingo inhabited lagunas, and wind eroded rock formations.




Polygons on the salt flats


View of Volcan Tunupa from Isla Incahausi in the middle of the Salar de Uyuni.



Cacti on Isla Incahausi, an outcropping of ancient coral formations in the middle of the salt flats.




Hey, who shrunk my husband?!?



Sunrise over the Salar.


View across the Salar toward Volcan Tunupa at surise.


Rock formations near Volcan Ollague.


Flamingo flying low over Laguna Hedionda.



Mountains in the Siloli Desert.


Arbol de Piedra (stone tree) in the Siloli Desert.


Hanging out in the Siloli Desert.


View overlooking Laguna Colorada


A local outside at the park checkpoint in Laguna Colorada.


Sunrise dip in the Polques thermal springs (air temp, -10C)


Laguna Verde, near the Chilean border.


Rock formations in the Valle de Rocas near San Cristóbal, Bolivia.


Saturday, 12 May 2007

Birthplace of the Sun (Lake Titikaka, Peru & Bolivia)

On our way south from the Inka Trail, we spent a couple days visiting indigenous villages and ancient ruins on Lake Titikaka. One of the most striking memories, besides the smell of fresh lake trout, was the clarity of distant landscapes at 3800 meters (12,000 feet).


Lake Titikaka commute


Reed village of the Uros (near Puno, Peru). The villages are built on top of two meters of floating reeds.

Local woman demostrating how to peel the base of the totora reed for eating, an important source of water and vitamins (not just homebuilding). They´re tastey too!

Copacabana, Bolivia... not quite the hottest spot north of Havana, but the fish stalls along the beach were lovely.

View overlooking the Inka creation site on Isla del Sol, Bolivia. Inka legend has it that the sun and moon were born from a massive red rock just beyond the ruins you see above.

Hi there!

Fisherman out for an evening catch. The setting sun reflected off clouds and the Bolivian peaks of Illampu (6362m) and Ancohuma (6427m), making for a beautiful evening on Isla del Sol.

Tuesday, 1 May 2007

Machu Picchu (Look Who´s 30!)

Four days before my birthday, Stephen and I headed out on the Inka trail with a group of 16 hikers and the hopes of reaching Machu Picchu for April 28th, my birthday.


We started at 2720meters the first day, which was an easy hike through the Sacred Valley.


We past the ruins of Llactapata...


And had a beautiful sunset at about 3000 meters,


Though we were all thinking about the next day when we were going to climb to Dead Woman´s Pass at 4198 meters.

The second day was a long slow climb,

But the 1,000 meter climb doesn´t look so bad from the top! After decending 400 meters we settled in for an afternoon of rest.

We had a great view from our tent.

The next day it rained for our longest day of hiking.
The smell of wet bark mixed with moss and the occasional flower.

The rain broke for sunset,

Which we watched over the Winaywayna ruins.

The next day we got up at 4 a.m. and climbed our way to Machu Picchu to see the first rays of sun hit the ruins.


Dirty Birdy...


Dirty Birdy Thirty.


We hiked with a great group,


And a really friendly guide, Carlos.


A few parting shots...